Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always defined its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these narratives and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
